Joe Ng and Eddie Schoenfeld take the cramped space below their hit restaurant RedFarm out for a spin as a Peking duck-centric eatery. The idea hidden in the name of this restaurant is that Decoy will divert customers from RedFarm, perhaps winnow their walk-ins, and placate waiting diners with a bar menu all their own and a cocktail list of Asian-inflected drinks to wile away the minutes until a table opens up upstairs.
When we say "cramped," we really mean it; this is not the usual vaguely packed sort of elbow-knocking—this is a family dinner that too many relatives showed up at. It is a happy discomfort, set in a place that your grandmother, obsessed with canard-related art and tchotchkes, might have designed in a fit of pique after your grandfather bought a new set of expensive golf clubs without her permission.
Hopefully you like duck, because that's what's for dinner, augmented with starters and sides and perhaps a little jerk chicken or lobster. But mostly, you're in for a lot of duck, done as a three-course meal cooked to order in the small spot's special Peking duck oven, which limits the restaurant's nightly reservations by only managing about two dozen birds a night.