The Nolita Fonda offers Tacombi to folks in the mood for tacos without a lot of hassle, a smart decision that could very well be Fonda's undoing: with some of the area's best tacos coming out of a carved-up VW microbus inside the already inviting Fonda, it's a wonder that anyone ever makes it to the real kitchen. It's food-truck dining indoors, and if we're truly, really lucky, Fonda will leave the original location to their concept and throw a few more VW buses into the Nolita location.